Cher Paris…

I hope this email finds you well.

I know it’s been a while, but I just have a few things to say. I don’t want to offend you my dear, but after almost three centuries of inspiring, making the crowds dance, and sing, and drunk with a dangerous sense of greatness, you’re lost. For three centuries, you’ve not only been the incubator of the greatest fashion houses, you’ve been the cradle. Their hype man. So how come Paris in the 21st century does not echo the same reverence? Could your sister cities, more contemporary, but only half as pretty, steal the show?

17th century. Versailles. Louis XIV. Your legend started here. The madness of your king’s grandeur and his desire to assert his supremacy creates what we call today fashion. I mean all those “influencers” with their chai lattes and inflated bubble lips, and think that fashion is so different. But also, Louis XIV paraded with white leggings and wooden block heels, so maybe it’s not so different.

Rose Bertin and Charles Frederick Worth opened the field of possibilities to couturiers, who have become creators. They no longer execute the requests of their customers but imagine real worlds peopled with tall, slender giants in appliqued dresses as seen in the défilés.

Paris, you were haute couture. You were luxury. You were fashion. In the 19th century, the whole world would meet in the rue de la Paix, to discover and copy what the French capital had to offer. London, New York, and even Tokyo are hot on your heels but, they never equal you. Your child prodigies, Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and many others will only increase and accentuate your legitimacy. Their names are echoed in all corners of the world, and you are the punctuation.

But today is different. You are a bit tired, no? The makeup that used to cling to your features like a veil now creases on the wrinkles of your face. No one wears couture anymore. The democratization of fashion, “mass-produced” clothing, ready-to-wear have passed by. In contrast to haute couture, ready-to-wear is a question of industry and no longer of know-how. The economic crisis of 2008, which shook the economy, created this breach in which brands also had to reinvent themselves. Our way we understand fashion has changed, and so is the way we consume it. The 2017 ranking of the fashion capitals of Global Language Monitor is also without appeal: New York takes the first place. The bold American proves to be more innovative and seductive. Her young designers have imposed a new style, a new breath. Fashion does not come from above but from below. In the same vein, your critics cite your lack of originality, too shy or fearful to change your habits. Very franco-français, you would tell me. But come on, you made Gaultier, Margiela, Lacroix and all of their flamboyant theatricalities that everyone lived for. You are running a bit low on life lately. Low on youth. Show us something new.

Okay. J’abuse. You did try. You plucked Jacquemus from the young ones, you wrestled for the LVMH Prize for all your young fashion students breaking their backs on sewing machines night after night. I see you some nights, you know, in your warehouse parties thrown by your cool indie magazines.

Let’s face it, in the fashion big four, you were never the extravagant one. You are tradition. You are culture. You are unchallenged. The one everybody keeps coming back to. I always bet on you because you are sure value. Your past speaks for you. Of course, you keep the same dusty names on your table, but is this not your strength? Longevity, life expectancy? No other city guards fashion empires like you. Your reputation dominates and seduces all designers. Paris is Paris. You are still an institution. Nevertheless, a relationship requires give and take. Don’t be afraid of change, embrace it. Keep your soul, but show to your skeptics your brightness and how you can add fantasy to your universe. Welcome your new talents even if they’re different from your norm and let them stand tall in front of the world. You will only be more beautiful. You were the beginning, prove that you are still the one and only.

I have your back.

Amoureusement.

Une Parisienne

————————

Click here to view F303 in its entirety

MARIA SERVELLO PETIT – MODEL TURNED PHOTOGRAPHER

Maria Servello Petit is a fashion model and photographer, who was born in Zurzach but currently resides in Paris. She started modelling at the age of 16 in New York city. One day while she was walking around the streets of New York a designer scouted her asking if she could walk for them and this is how it all started. After that she continued modelling for quite a few years.

15 years ago, she met her husband Emmanuel Laurent Petit a former French footballer who played at club level for Monaco, Arsenal, Barcelona and Chelsea as a midfielder. He also represented France at international level in two UEFA European championships. After Maria met her husband and they had kids, she decided to stop modelling and take the time to take care of them.

About two years ago, she got back into modelling. She explains: ‘As I’m now in my 40’s the modelling business is not the same anymore.’

Maria knew she wanted to stay in the fashion business but she wasn’t sure of what exactly she would do. However, she did love photography although it was more of a hobby for her, as she carried a camera around and always took pictures of everything. Therefore she figured that if she could put the two together ‘fashion and photography’ she could make something out of it. One day she asked her friend Mark who was a model at Elite Modelling Management Agency to pose for her. This was her first shoot, and it went on for 8 hours with a few outfit and location changes. After the shoot was done, she retouched the photos and showed them to Mark, he really loved the way they turned out and suggested that he would take the photos to his agency. Following that Maria was invited and told that they would like to work with her and keep her in the men’s division.

Maria is now a freelance photographer and has collaborated with magazines like the Sioux magazine, Los Angeles, Aden Magazine New York, Cool Korean, Provocateur magazine and more.

Most of Maria’s work features shoots with male models amounted to 80% compared to the women she has shot as she thinks it is easier.

She mentioned that she had never studied photography at an academic level or never took up any courses, everything she learnt about photography was on YouTube.

As for the equipment, she explained to us that she only uses one camera with multiple lenses for almost all her shoots. When it comes to the lighting for outdoor shoots she never uses any reflectors. She says: ‘When other people or other photographers hear what I’m saying they’re like that’s not true! It’s impossible that you have a perfect picture without having all the extra equipment’s and my answer was always that it’s just the way I work, the way I place the model based on the natural lighting and it turns out well. It’s easier for me may be because I was in the modelling business for a long time I just know how it works’.

Maria also travels to a lot of cities like New York, London or Miami to shoot. She likes shooting outdoor and recently set up a studio at her place where she did about 5 or 6 shoots and almost all of them got featured in editorials for magazines.

When we asked her if there was any shoot that she did that she would prefer to others, she replied:  ‘There is this one shoot I did that pops out. I was photographing a female model which I rarely do.I connected the shoot with the designer’s collection which was completely white. The shoot was done in a park in Paris with caves and waterfalls where I decided to add smoke bombs with colours into the picture which made them look really amazing.’

Music Machines at Galeries Lafayette

Despite the snow that fell on Paris this weekend, Spring and its beautiful days are imminent and this season also means the comeback of the outdoor music festivals! Thus, music will be invited to Galeries Lafayette from April 11 to June 24, 2018, with a new event called Music Machines. For the first day, the Parisian department store will open its doors to many new artists.

Music Machines will offer live performances as well as happenings, Stereokids sessions, festive activities, fashion and participatory workshops. It will be held outdoors, near the flagship of Boulevard Haussmann. Then, a  regional musical tour aimed at revealing young talents will also take place in Angers, Nice, Toulouse and other cities.

In the Hausmann store, traditional windows will be changes into scenes, hosting shows and concerts. They will present passers-by the sound, the light and the effects of the live experience. Galeries Lafayette will also offer a personalized shopping experience in music. The company Faith France imagined a game on screens that determines a musical selection adapted to the customer’s mood. Then people will listen to it in the aisles of the point-of-sale with an audio headset lent for the occasion. Finally, the “Galerie des Galeries”, the place of creation of the department store, will animate on the theme of music, while a fashion-style pop-up of Etudes Studio will take place at Galeries Lafayette Homme.

This summer will inaugurate the very first Galeries Lafayette’s festival where music and fashion will be one.

My First Fashion Week

Ever wondered what a day-to-day life is for a fashion intern? Read below for my breakdown of what it was like working my first fashion week with a daily diary from pre-show to show to showroom. Enjoy!

*Note: I’ve decided to keep the brand I’ve worked for confidential, so, unfortunately, no pictures in this post. Sorry! The featured photo is the view from the venue, so if you’re a good enough sleuth, you can figure out the brand! 

Pre-Show

With only some experience in the industry, I had a wide range of expectations for what the final show prep would be for the show. What I experienced was a range of pretty much anything and everything. For me, I have background experience in design, retail, communications, and business, so my tasks ran the gamut compared to the other interns. I sewed parts of the collection, steamed clothes, ran errands, helped style the final looks, helped cast the models, dressed them, and any and all “bitch-work” you can imagine. One of the most important tasks I undertook was making sure all the clothes were in perfect condition and created the line sheet for the buyers after the show (this included cataloging the collection and being able to name every single piece – really cool if you ask me).

There were multiple late nights including the last day before the show when we didn’t wrap until 1am. It was hard work, but I learned so much and met so many amazing people in the industry.

Show Day

The day of the show was whirlwind and definitely was off to a bumpy start. It was snowing in Paris and we needed to run stuff from the showroom to the venue. I sat in an Uber with the seats down so the model boards could lay flat and not be ruined. Once we got to the venue, it was work mode: dress the models, steam the clothes, make sure hair and makeup were taken care of, make sure the venue was perfect, make sure the dressers knew what to do. Then 3-2-1, it was showtime and after all the quick changes, the show was over in a blink of an eye with resounding applause both from us backstage and all the important people in the audience.

On a high from the show, we rushed to get the clothes to the showroom and prep for the buyers to come for the following weeks. While we were dismantling rolling racks, I sliced my finger open so deep that blood went everywhere — but that still couldn’t kill my good mood.

Showroom

The showroom definitely carried a different air than the week preceding. We were situated in a great space near the Arc de Triomphe with an Italian showroom company.  Mostly, I focused on dressing the model, creating line sheets for buyers, and making sure the collection remained intact. I definitely had a few late nights, too, as I had to make sure all the orders were perfect for important companies like Bergdorf Goodman and Galeries Lafayette. My language skills definitely came in handy as a few clients came in from China and didn’t speak French, Italian or English, so it was Vince to the rescue. Same when we had clients from Italy and the manager of the company was busy with another client, I took the reigns in presenting the collection in Italian.

Final Thoughts 

Throughout the entire internship, I definitely learned so much more about the industry than I ever expected. Especially working with a younger, smaller brand I was able to be significantly more hands-on and at the same time be lucky enough to work with people who’ve been in the industry at larger labels. It was a great networking experience.

On one last note, in America, we’re raised with this magical image of Paris. We imagine the luxurious lifestyle presented to us in classic movies and from the fashion industry. After the show wrapped, I was in the Mercedes with the rest of the team, discussing the success of the show, passing all the landmarks from Notre Dame to the Arc de Triomphe and at that moment I felt the magic that is Paris. The iconic landmarks I grew up seeing photos of were now a part of the landscape of my home and it was magic.

 

Office Outfit Ideas from F/W 18

When you think of a banker, or a La Défense guy, you imagine someone in a dark pantsuit and tie, over it a fur-trimmed parka in black. Possibly a beige trench coat. Clearly, it’s not the type of job where you have much room for fun outfits. It’s formulaic, a sartorial message that says I have no time to waste thinking about clothes. But collections presented at last menswear fashion week beg to differ. Here are fun outfit ideas to wear to the office!

1. Off-White

Inspired by the late eighties and early nighties, Off-White imagines a new generation of business men trading their blacks and their navy blues for shades of gray, as seen on the sleek gray striped jacket and roomy Dickies-style pants of the opening look.

2. Haider Ackermann

A collection with personality and hidden depths. Faded floral-patterned shirts, a soft but tailored drill jacket, sleek khaki overcoats lined with an electric teal fabric, and mustard socks peeking out of black leather boots. Pops of color go a long way in playing up neutral palettes.

3. Valentino

Pierpaolo Piccioli’s narrow silhouettes also include some pretty elaborate decorative feature à l’italienne: embroideries of flowers, delicate silk pocket squares, and flawlessly tailored traditional overcoats. An innovative collection with the purpose of communicating the expressive and romantic side of masculinity. “The male wardrobe is a century of rules and I think in the past decades men have changed very fast. They don’t want to be stereotyped anymore,” Piccioli notes.

4. AMI Alexandre Mattiussi

The softness and the traditionally masculine style need not be mutually exclusive. The AMI man this season is armed with bulky double-breasters, gray flannels worn with white sneakers and a lively crimson sweater. But the real takeaway is leather. Making pants, shirts, and bomber jackets in this material, Mattiussi implores on the factoring in of leather on an otherwise buttoned-up look.

5. Alexander McQueen

The whole concept at Alexander McQueen was the exploration of British masculinity with the protruding jumpers, chalky stripes, trusty leather outerwear, and a ripped  military coat in quilted and luxe materials. A tuxedo track pant is seen complimenting an embroidered evening jacket. So many things to question about the British, but never the way their men dress.

6. Dior Homme

On the Christian Dior runway, both generations were represented, the original 90’s guys  wearing the suits and carrying the briefcases, and the next generation in fun jackets and sneakers. The 90’s trendsof T-shirts layered over long-sleeves, the baggy high-waist jeans, the polo shirts are all reinterpreted in a millenial framework.

 

Top 5 Exhibitions to hit Paris in 2018

2018 seems to be looking bright for avid cultural explorers and enthusiasts alike. The line up for the upcoming year offers diverse and exciting expositions. Whether it be honoring the works of legends in their respective industries or time traveling to the past and getting inside the minds of well-loved artists, these will definitely fill up your calendar.

1. Margiela / Gallieria

Palais Gallieria will be honoring the great Martin Margiela and his contribution to the fashion industry in the past three decades. Though he was known to be quite a mystery in the fashion world, we are all invited to celebrate his life and his legacy through this exhibition.

Margiela / Galleria at the Palais Galliera from 03 March to 15 July

2. Picasso et La Danse

There are numerous expositions that will focus on the life and work of Picasso in 2018. But one I am personally looking forward to the most is “Picasso et La Danse” that will be exhibited at Opéra Garnier at the end of spring. As the artist had quite a special relationship with dance, he created stage design for the Russian Ballet and formed relationships and friendships that are often reflected in his work.

Picasso et La danse in L’Opera from 19 June to 16 September

3. Margiela: Les Années Hermés

After a successful run at Antwerp, where he was born, the exhibition finds its new home at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. The former creative director of Hermés from 1997 till 2003 will showcase his previous work for the brand and the minimal approach he took in creating a total of 12 collections.

Margiela: Les Années Hermés at Musée des Arts Décoratifs from 22 March to 2 September

4. Ghosts and Hells – The underworld in Asian Art at the Musée du Quai Branly Jacques Chirac 

This might stand out among the rest on this list but it gives such an interesting ring to it. This exposition will give us a deeper understanding of the relationship of Asian culture to the unworldly or to the different dimensions of books, cinema, art or religion.

Ghosts and Hells – the underworld in Asian art at the Musée du Quai Branly Jacques Chir from 10 April until 15 July 2018

5. “Michael Jackson, icône de l’art” at the Grand Palais

Michael Jackson, icône de L’art at the Grand Palais from 23 November to 17 February 2019

Michael Jackson was more than an icon, he revolutionized music and transcended generations. In this exhibition, he as a person and his contribution to art, fashion, culture and more will be the center point of what we can expect when it opens in the last quarter of the year.

Don’t miss out on a chance to get to see some of these or even recommend us a few more you would like us to review!

Final Days to Dream of Dior, Couturier du Rêve

When you think of Paris fashion, Dior is always one of the first houses to come to mind. The artistry and innovative mind of Christian Dior shaped an entire generation of fashion design and style. Over the last 70 years, the house has remained at the top of the fashion consciousness. What better way to honor the platinum anniversary of Dior with the exhibition, “Dior, Couturier du Rêve” at Les Arts Décoratifs in the Louvre Museum.

Now entering its final days, the exhibition is a must-see if you haven’t made it to Rue de Rivoli to experience the creation and growth of the House of Dior. Described as “lavish” and “comprehensive”, this exhibition of Dior, offers the visitors the possibility to witness the depth of the man behind the label, his home, his artistry, as well as an integrated look at the works of all the designers that have succeeded him: Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons and, most recently, Maria Grazia Chiuri.

When we at IFA Paris made our way to the exhibition, we were taken aback by the utter beauty of the spaces and the extensive collection of archival work by the House of Dior. The collection transcended gowns, but walls of furniture, sketches, magazine covers, and more. There’s even an in-museum designer showing the process of embroidery on a gown.

The final room draws your attention upward to mountains of couture. Frozen in beauty, the view is unreal. You’ll stop of your tracks, unable to move at the sheer beauty of the gowns filling every corner of the room. Parisian artistry at its best.

If you can’t make it to witness the dreams of Dior before 7 January, enjoy our photos to transport you their in perpetuity.

Top Five Christmas decorations in Parisian stores

Jingle bell! Jingle bell! Jingle bell rock!

Finally, December is here! The last and most awaited month of the year. When every street, house, restaurant, office, and store has a beautiful Christmas tree and decorations. There are lights, happiness, love, lots of presents and a bit of snow in every corner of Paris. But the most beautiful decorations to look for are the ones in the stores and malls. They just made the shopping everywhere so much more exciting. Here are our top five Christmas displays that you should look out for in Paris.

Dior Homme – Paris Montaigne

Le Bon Marche Rive Gauche

Sephora – Champs Elysees

Les Halles – Chatelet Les Halles

 

Galleria Lafayette

 

 

KEY THINGS TO REMEMBER FROM VOGUE FASHION FESTIVAL 2017

On October 24^th and 25^th of this year, the hotel Potocki welcomed Vogue Fashion Festival, second edition in partnership with Swarovski and as special guest Karl Lagerfeld. From masterclasses to conferences, the great names in the world of fashion gave their advice. Here are key things for us to remember:

The creativity: The subject was highlighted. François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s CEO, gave his advice to reach Millenials. He took as examples Saint Laurent or Gucci that have created a harmonious creative universe consistent for this generation. The emotional component really matters for this age group while rational luxury codes like heritage or craftsmanship don’t speak enough to them. He recommended brands to create desire and dream through a strong story-telling and to satisfy their emotional need by a creative risk taking. Also the relationship between art and fashion has been spotlighted by collaborations such as Louis Vuitton with Takeshi Murakami, Richard Prince or Stephen Sprouse as well as fashion exhibitions in prestigious museums like Christian Dior in Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

Channels of communication 2.0: Jacquemus or Caroline de Maigret testified of Instagram’s added value in their brand image or in their career. They recommended being universal while at the same time staying honest and sincere. Snapchat became one of the most influential social media, very successful with young people. Emmanuel Durant, general manager of Snapchat France explained that the app and fashion has for common point the creative spirit but also announced it should be recast, allowing users to find easily new influencers to follow. He concluded with Snapchat glasses made to eliminate barriers and be able to record in real-time memories.  Finally Karl Lagerfeld, a special guest of this edition, mentioned these ways of communication, giving for example his sketches sent by iPhone or his fittings for Fendi by Facetime.

Be passionate: Whether it is to launch your start-up or succeed in your interview for a job, the idea is the same: you have to enjoy what you are doing and believe in it. For Ingrid Brochart, Panoply’s founder, “When we believe, it goes faster.” No matter what ambitions or projects, recommendations were to strike out and trust your ideas.

ACCESSORIES DID THEIR SHOW DURING FASHION WEEK

Even though collections and clothes that compose them are still being stars of the Fashion Week, our eyes could not avoid accessories that accompanied them. Minimalistic design or extravagant, there was something to suit all tastes. Designers have been bold and imaginative.

 

When it comes to bags, Missoni proposes a minimalist format with a pannier wearing as a necklace while Gucci suggests an XXXL version. Those of Maison Margiela and Thom Browne take surprising shapes as pillow and dog.

For Spring/Summer 2018, we didn’t expect neither to see thigh-high boots on the runway. However in PVC for Chanel or in electric yellow wrapped around the leg for Y/Project, they break the cleavage seasons and get their place between pumps and sandals.

 

Once the weather gets warmer and the sun comes back, glasses are our best partners: among the futuristic version of Prada, a retro look from Gucci or a floral shape from Dolce&Gabbana, it’s up to us to choose.

 

Finally, add a beautiful pair of earrings to enhance your natural beauty. Arty, disco, mismatched… Each style brings value to your silhouette.

Trust us, put one of these finishing touches on a basic look and you will be a real fashionista!

 

Chloé Blain